For Guerlain makeup artist Anthony Chasset, there is more to painting a woman’s face than merely what colours are in trend for the season.
Everything from skin type, bone structure and even a client’s lifestyle and personality factor in to what shades and techniques he uses on a particular person.
“Make-up application depends on the skin morphology of the client, shape of the eyes, lips, cheeks, the bone structure and also the skintone. It’s really important and makes a difference on what technique is used,” explained Chasset, who was in Kuala Lumpur for a number of interviews, training sessions and demonstrations with Guerlain.
“The biggest challenge is to observe the woman’s natural beauty, to be able to quickly catch on to what parts I need to enhance on the face of each client, and to adapt myself to each country, culture, beauty culture, because it differs from country to country.”
A woman’s personal style, her lifestyle and personality are a big deal to Chasset, who takes the time and effort to assess whether a client is bold, shy, or in-between and how these traits will influence what kind of make-up she prefers.
“Maybe she wants to focus on a particular part of the face – the eyes or lips – and I like to know why, and if I can find a way to help her be comfortable with enhancing different areas of her face,” said Chasset. “It’s rewarding when she looks in the mirror and she has this look, we call it the ‘champagne eyes’ in French … it means there’s glitter in her eyes and it means that my work is done and I’m happy about it.”
Chasset, who was a professional dancer for 15 years until a knee injury forced him to choose another path, began his career as a freelance makeup artist for theatre, TV shoes, musicals and other makeup brands.
“During my time as a professional dancer I was always spending a lot of time with the hairdressers and make-up artists backstage, travelling all over the world, and also playing with glitter and eyelashes, which I really enjoyed,” said Chasset, who graduated from the Christian Chauvaux Artistic Make-up school.
“So after the knee injury it was an easy choice to become a makeup artist, a natural progression for me,” he added.
A year of studying and learning makeup techniques prepared Chasset for his career in the industry, working with different brands and in industries ranging from fashion and beauty to the performing arts and entertainment, before he settled in at Guerlain in 2009.
There, he discovered a world where he could experiment with various looks and techniques, and a range of exciting products like the new Rouge G lipstick which is making waves worldwide.
“For four or five years all the brands have been putting a lot of energy into lips because it’s a real focus for makeup and the trend now is lips,” noted Chasset. “They are really important to the new generation – the bloggers and influencers – the lips are really strong.”
Strong matte finishes were a leading trend for two to three years but according to Chasset, this year’s runways have been filled with glossy, metallic and satiny lips.
“All the countries are really excited about it because you can choose 30 shades and 15 cases, we have 145 ways of customising your lipstick and your lips,” he added.
Apart from the clever ways one can personalise their Rouge G – through a selection of cases with various colours and patterns – Chasset explains that the lipstick itself is a winner in many categories.
“The texture really makes the difference because of the smooth, long-lasting effect and the plumpy effect, which are really difficult to do and we’ve done it with the Rouge G. Guerlain has always been about strong lips and we were the first to make lipstick for women, the first to have a lipstick case with a mirror and the only one to offer this in cosmetics,” he added.
At the core of it all, Chasset finds joy every day in his work as he continues to experiment on various clients, finding excitement in discovering what works for different women across the world.
Anthony Chasset’s go-to products
L’Or Radiance Concentrate With Pure Gold (makeup base primer)
Infused with pure gold flecks, the cooling gel sinks into the skin, retaining moisture and evening out your complexion. Glow with divine and unfailing radiance and boost your complexion with a supple and satiny finish that’s ready for long-lasting makeup application.
“This product has a really good lifting effect, and it smooths the skin.” – Chasset12
Abeille Royale Youth Watery Oil
Formulated with unique and exclusive bee products and Myrrh oil, the non-greasy, oil-in-water plumps the skin and makes it more radiant.
“It smooths every wrinkle and line and gives skin a smooth effect, and a really dewy finish and healthy glow.” – Chasset