Sandwiched between fashion’s Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter seasons, Pre-Fall offers designers the freedom to mix and match as their hearts desire. Expect everything from fur coats and sheer dresses to summer frocks and thick overcoats in the lineup.
Some designers drew inspiration from different cultures. Others picked apart iconic eras to fuel their vision. Clashing prints, unexpected colours and varied styles – the (in-between) season proves to be a fashion free-for-all.
Here’s a look at some of the fashion offerings.
This happens to be the very first collection with all three Burberry lines consolidated under one label. It offers a rather regimental take on 70s-inspired design, with flared trousers, knit tops and belted trenches all paired together.
The colours – comprising navy, white, olive and khaki – have been kept resolutely muted, if only to adhere to the theme. Gold buttons and topstitching are seen adding to the military feel of the pieces, as well.
Outwerwear are nevertheless, presented in cool, oversized silhouettes: slouchy and big, yet practical. This adds a touch of “street” to the collection, something of which the youths would appreciate.
Coach’s Pre-Fall 2016 lineup combines traditional outerwear pieces with a cosy vibe. As it has always been, the aesthetic is wholly American, with a beautiful mix of refined leather and sleek fabrics.
Some of the key pieces of the collection include jackets and coats with fur appliques and patchwork fabrics. These are in addition to the many shearling and varsity jackets that speak of sporty preppiness.
When it comes to bags, the season’s “it” model is none other than The Rouge. This is a three-compartment satchel with a strap that could be used both as a handbag and a shoulder bag.
Also highlighted is the brand’s iconic thick-soled clogs with turn-lock hardware.
For Carolina Herrera, the season is all about raised hemlines and structured silhouettes. Sharp, tailored suiting is also apparent, with flannel, velvet, crepe, and techno jersey softened by feminine details of peplum, frilly ruching and bow neckties.
The colour palette and prints echo the spirit – vibrant tones of clover green, cayenne, raspberry and cobalt are tempered by shades of graphite, ivory and black, together with graphic prints of abstract florals and jasmine motifs.
Carolina Herrera was apparently inspired by femininity and lightness. Asked to share a few words about Pre-Fall, she said, “It’s about tailoring for day, and very glamorous evenings. That’s what we need, so that’s what this collection is about.”
From Japanese street style to the American southwest and island vibes of Jamaica, the Valentino designers tapped into a wide range of influences. Thematically, it spans different worlds and continents.
Standout pieces include embroidered coats depicting scenery of nature and butterflies, as well as sheer gowns with lace embellishments. All that eclecticity is further emphasised with models sporting hair knots for a tribal inspired look.
According to co-creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri (who just departed the fashion house), the collection’s inspiration was Elio Fiorucci. Fiorucci, who died last year, was a New York institution whose own influences came from everywhere.
Gucci’s collection for Pre-Fall is nothing if not chaotic. All the pieces look random but fits well enough together, if you can see the appeal of them being paired in a clashing sort of way.
A feline sweater worn with a fringe skirt; evening dresses in tiered tulle, dusted with glitter and embroidered with patchworks; print blouses with pussybows and floral skirts. They provide a visual feast, albeit an eccentric one.
The collection reads as a cohesive continuum with previous seasons too. This only points to the vision that creative director Alessandro Michele has for fashion – something that speaks of a modern attitude open to individual interpretation.